Field to Fork: The fork part

I'm not sure how I may concisely summarize the "Field to" part, but i will try. Last year while at a dinner party,RMR Pheasant Terry and Rachel got into a discussion about where our food comes from. Many of us have been having this dialogue for quite awhile- spawned from people like, author Michael Pollan, and movements across the country focused on sustainability and the 'locavore'. But out of their conversation came an idea- "What if we learned how to hunt our food and bring it to the table, and in the process document it on the camera." [that is summarized of course]

Well a year later and they managed to take hunter's safety classes, gun classes, serendipitously found a guide, bought and borrowed gear, went duck-deer-pheasant hunting, cleaned their own birds and rabbit and planned a dinner for twelve to culmintate it all. In the words of Lexie Justice, "Rock On Crouton".

Terry and Rachel spent the better part of last weekend preparing for this meal. Michelle and I, like other wives of hunters, will be glad to get our spouses back for the Spring. Mind you, all game that was prepared and eaten at this meal was procured by someone that was sitting around this dinner table (mainly our two new hunter rock stars). It should also be noted that every part of the bird or rabbit that could be used for the dinner, did get used for the dinner. I tried to convince Rachel that the rabbit's feet would make fabulous napkin rings, but she insisted on the ever pedestrian key chain. Carcasses and vegetables were roasted and then used for stocks. Those stocks would be involved in a myriad of uses for the dinner.

You may be wondering- who the heck got invited to this dinner?

Well, mostly people that were involved with the facilitation of the hunts.
Bob and Jill Olsen- Two amazing, very giving and fun people. Their stories will unfold a bit more as the project moves along, but they are the owners of Little Bijou Ranch in NE Colorado. And I should note my new college football watching buddies.
Ted and Heather Brown- Ted is the kismet guide. Insatiable hunter with knowledge to spare (patience, not so much). Seriously, this guy is salt of the earth (Southern, of course). And his very patient and giving wife Heather who is about to birth Theo(also present, kind of) in about a month.
Nick and Kelly- Nick is a friend of Ted's and the more patient and quiet of the two.
Matt and Courtney- Also friends of Ted's that are consumate hunters and happen to be in town from San Fran. We will have to make it out to Cali for a hunt, I'm sure of it
Mishka and myself- Of course the help gets to eat

Alright, let's talk about some fooooooood. And there were 5 courses, all wines were perfectly paired by moi (and some really good help from Maggie at Mondo Vino)

First Course: Olsen Ranch Duck Liver Paté Mousse, poached sundried cherry and chervil on Brioche toast points. And, White wine and thyme braised pheasant legs finished with Miaomiao Olive Oil
Wine: Trevisiol Prosecco Brut NV

This was the only course that I helped plate. It could have been because I kept gnoshing on all of the brioche. When it was all put together, and plated as sweet little hors d'oeuvres, I kept going back to the duck. The pheasant was tasty, but the paté just melted in your mouth. And who doesn't want seconds or thirds of things that melt in your mouth. The sweet and savory of the brioche was a perfect facilitator for the mousse. The cherry and the chev were simply a kiss kiss.

Second Course: Smoked Bacon and Apricot Olsen Ranch Rabbit with mustard vinegarette on bibb lettuce finished with herb fine
Wine: Shaya Verdejo 08

Let's just talk about a rabbit loin for a second, shall we. They're cute. If one may find a large man's thick fingers cute, because that is essentially what they look like. So these 'cute' little things got seared for moments, not minutes. The legs were braised and then the braising liquid was reduced as the base of the mustard vinegarette. The flavors went very well together. It was light and simple, yet the flavors made a bold statement. As if, the rabbit was going to get minority status by going into the salad. Don't worry little wabbit, the presence was delicious, and the "wild" was definitely noticeable.

Third Course: Olsen Ranch Duck: An updated look at Duck a l'Orange along with winter vegetable melánge
Wine: Alendorf Rheingau Spatburgunder 08

As I mentioned before, the stocks played several roles in this dinner. The duck stock, along with some fresh orange juice, zest and white wine, was reduced and reduced and reduced into a dark caramel demi-glace. The duck breast simply seared off. The veggie melánge- I just like saying melánge- I'm not even sure that is what they were calling it. Brussel sprouts were lovingly pulled apart- just free loving leaves (don't think that this technique helps with the aftermath of sprouts), carrots and rhutebega were julienned and all tossed together with a bit of herbed butter.
I'm not sure how you feel about duck, but I love it. Kind of like I like my men- dark, distinct and slightly gamey. OK, maybe not the gamey part. The delicate nuances of the duck (killed in the wild, don't forget), atop the velvety demi glace saddled up to those vegetables was a lovely combination. I tried several different combinations on my fork, before wine, after wine- they all seemed like succulent combos.

Fourth Course: RMR Pheasant with red wine and chantrelle sauce along with sweet potato gratin and wilted rainbow chard
Wine: Blason Cabernet Franc 07

I was starting to feel a bit full after three. Then, I made a pass through the kitchen and saw the gratin coming out of the oven and the breasts searing off on the range. I knew I only had one choice, stuff myself silly. And again, sauce is the best accessory. The stock (pheasant, of course) was reduced from about eight quarts down to two cups [read this can't be done when you get home from work]. The chantrelles were kissed with a little Maker's Mark- I imagined it more like the Jennifer Beales scene in Flashdance, but I digress. Now about this potato gratin- it was both potato and sweet potato crusted with Parmesiano Reggiano and Panko- a very generous portion. The chard was wilted with some carmelized shallots.

If I could go back in time and recourse thanksgiving, it may have to look a little like this course. I don't recall eating pheasant before, but I'm taken very kindly to it. It's a sturdy and flavorful fowl, maybe what the chicken would like to grow up to be. It was moist and seared off wonderfully. The sweet potato in the gratin made it 'seem' a little lighter (my gut told me otherwise) and paired nicely with the bird. And the chard acted as good balance as far as roughage is concerned- hardy as hardy as green can be.

Fifth Course: Meringue Nests with vanilla orange pastry cream finished with supremed citrus
Wine: La Vina Flare Espumosa Moscatel

OK, so I'm not the biggest fan of meringue, or as Rachel likes to call it Ma-rang-gay. And I did make one smartass comment to Terry about the consistency of the nests (which of course I was kidding, and she took it seriously) which led to making three batches of the little suckers and stressing out the entire kitchen. Lesson: don't tease Terry in the kitchen. Lesson learned. But I didn't dive into the dessert out of guilt, I did it because it called for it. This fortress of white meringue filled with divine and luscious pastry cream topped with oranges and grapefruits. I was already stuffed, but this was like eating tasty air, right. Before I knew it I was three quarters a way through it, ignoring my disdended pooch, washing it down with Spanish bubbles.

And over the course of these hours and bites of love that Rachel and T so bravely killed in the field to bring to us, we laughed to the point of almost crying, we told stories, we engaged in something that I hope becomes ritual, we learned new things about one another and about this new found love for hunting. It was a wonderful night and I know that there will be many more to come.

I must tip my hat and kiss the cheeks of the two that made this an unforgettable evening- Rachel and Terry. I am so proud of you both for doing what you set out to do, amongst the skepticism and scoffing. This journey will continue, it will be something that educates, entertains and brings amazing people together on so many different levels. thank you for letting me be a part.